This includes everything from Georgian-era dresses modeled off of styles popular in the countryside, to blue jeans and the more recent popularity of ripped jeans, to an infamous and heavily criticized 2017 men’s fashion show at New York Fashion Week inspired by homeless people. Particularly in terms of the peasant-inspired Grisha clothing style, though, this practice-of dressing like a person or group of people who are perceived to be lower-class-has been responsible for a variety of fashion trends throughout history. The way that the Grisha in the novel copy peasant culinary and clothing habits (while still living wildly privileged lives, eating more and better than real peasants, and wearing lavish clothing that’s only inspired by traditional peasant dress) more closely resembles Soviet-era propaganda campaigns that sought to idealize and elevate the working class, while actually doing no such thing. Ivan and Fyodor in the novel, meanwhile, are certainly nods to Ivan the Terrible himself and to Fyodor Basmanov, an oprichnik and, possibly, Ivan the Terrible’s lover. However, Bardugo also looked further back in history for some inspiration: the Darkling’s personal guards, the oprichniki, are named after the 16th-century Russian Tsar Ivan the Terrible’s own personal bodyguard corps. Unlike most high fantasy novels, Shadow and Bone draws mostly from 19th-century Tsarist Russia and Russian mythology to create its fictional world, rather than taking medieval-era western Europe as its inspiration.
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